Our staff know that a healthy cat is a happy cat and we have devised the following plan to try and keep your cat as healthy and happy as possible.
Vaccination is absolutely vital for disease prevention. The diseases we vaccinate against can be fatal! An initial course of 2 injections started from 9 weeks of age, followed by equally important annual booster vaccinations.
It is important to remember that your new kitten should not go outside until at least 3 weeks after his/her 2nd vaccination. Most people keep their kittens indoors a little longer than this, usually until they have been neutered at 5-6months of age.
We vaccinate against:
Feline Infectious Enteritis (FIE)
Cat Flu (Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis and Feline Calicivirus)
Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV)
All cats have worms and there are more than a dozen different types. One of these, Toxocara (a roundworm) is a serious health issue to humans and can, in extreme cases, cause blindness, especially in children. Kittens are often infected with Toxocara from their mother before birth. These worms then develop throughout the first six months of life. Our recommended protocol for treatment is a prescription treatment and wormer at first vaccine, then the most suitable prescription products thereafter, depending on your cat’s lifestyle.
3. Flea Control
In a typical infestation only 5% fleas (the adults) live on your cat and 95% (the eggs and larvae) live in the home. Fleas can cause skin problems (flea allergy dermatitis) and anaemia in young animals, not to mention intense itchiness!
We will be happy to advise you on the most appropriate prescription flea control product for your cat.
Throughout each stage of their lives cats have different nutritional requirements. We recommend a researched complete and balanced diet. Dry diets generally are better for the teeth than wet food.
We will be happy to advise you on the right most suitable diet for your cat.
5. Dental and Oral care
A cat’s mouth is similar to ours and so, like us, brushing teeth is the best option to prevent dental disease. For those animals who will not tolerate brushing we recommend feeding a dry dental diet to help control tartar.
With gentleness, patience and perseverance it may be possible to regularly clean your cat’s teeth (not all cats will tolerate cleaning so remember the non-brushing alternatives above). To start with you can dip the toothbrush in something tasty and smear it onto the outside of your cat’s teeth, or even just use some toothpaste on your finger to begin with. Most owners find that their cats will tolerate the cheek teeth being cleaned before they are happy to allow you to clean the front teeth. You must use a cat toothpaste rather than a human one.
This helps to prevent diseases. Un-neutered males are more likely to stray over a large area, will mark with a very pungent spray and are much more likely to fight. Fighting males are much more likely to spread diseases such as FIV and FeLV to other cats, and are likely to suffer from fight injuries such as abscesses. Because they wander over a large area they are also at greater risk of suffering road traffic accidents. Un-neutered females can have up to three litters in a year and will call regularly (about every two weeks from January through until the autumn) if they do not get pregnant. They are also more likely to suffer from serious diseases such as mammary cancer and uterine infections if not spayed. Furthermore, there are already too many unwanted kittens around! Neutering is generally performed at 5-6 months old.
Unexpected bills can be heartbreaking for both owners and vets if costs of treatment are prohibitive and the animal has to have less than optimal treatment or worse. Insurance represents a regular, worthwhile contribution to the health of your pet. Policies that provide lifelong cover are preferred over those which only offer 12 months of cover and then exclude the disease/condition in question, from any further cover.
The best way of protecting your cat against theft and of re-uniting you with him/her in the event of loss.
It is very important to get kittens used to being handled and for them to experience a variety of situations. Try to get your kitten used to having its mouth opened, its feet handled etc. and to being groomed. It is also useful to get them used to their cat basket (leaving it out for them to sleep in works well), and go travelling in the car.
Ever wondered why your cat rubs itself round your legs and the furniture?
The answer is pheromones, or “smelly hormones”. Cats use pheromones in their urine to mark the boundaries of their territory, and warn other cats to stay away. Similarly, they use pheromones secreted by glands in the face to mark areas where they feel safe and content - hence the rubbing round your legs.
At times of stress, moving house, a new cat in the area, or just of change in the household, this sense of security is lost and the cat may use urine marking and vertical scratching to try to reaffirm his/her position. This can be a difficult time for both owner and pet and if the situation is left untreated, the behaviour can become a habit and much harder to deal with.
“Feliway” is a convenient way to manage the symptoms of stress in cats. It reproduces certain pacifying properties of natural facial pheromones. Trials have shown that when feliway is applied to objects in your cat’s environment, it can reassure your cat and stop or prevent inappropriate marking behaviour.
BVVS top tip! Apply a spray of synthetic feline pheromone to each inside surface of your cat carrier 15 minutes before putting the cat in for a more relaxed traveler! And don't forget to treat the new house if moving before introducing the cat.